The Spike Burl!

Without support from @VEVOR and @TotalBoat this video would not have been possible. Big thanks to them! The Pressure Pot I used in this video can be found at this link: Other Pressure Paint Pot options: Don’t forget to use the code ’SAVEMORE5’ for an additional 5% discount on the featured product or any other item on the Vevor website. When I first got into resin casting about 2 years ago, I purchased Vevor’s 10 gallon pressure pot because it was the cheapest 10 gallon pressure pot I could find. Sometimes you’re in for disapointment when buying cheap tools, but that wasn’t the case with the Vevor pressure pot. Fast forward to today... Vevor reached out asking what product I would be interested in, and without hesitation I requested the same pressure pot. I guess they were phasing out their 10 gallon pots, but their 8 gallon pots are half the price of the 10 gallon pots and worth every cent. The pots are intended for paint pressure applications, so used @JakeThompson ’s video as a guide for updating them for resin casting: The Vevor pressure pots seem to be very well made, and in my experience they have been very reliable. If you’re looking to save $$$ you really can’t beat that. TotalBoat continues to support this channel with their various and wonderful epoxy resin products, without which this type of piece would be impossible. GET A DISCOUNT on their products by using this referral link: Now, about this project... This manzanita burl was staring at me from the shelf for quite a while. It was the type of gnarly piece that has tons of interesting characteristics, so many of which are, sadly but inevitably, reduced to dust. The struggle of working with pieces like this is that the majority of spikes and protrusions, although interesting and dramatic, must ultimately be sacrificed for the sake of the larger form hiding somewhere in the overall form of the burl. The other problem is determining how much resin to use or, perhaps more accurately in my case, to abuse. Keeping the majority of the gnarly features attached to the burl meant that I had to make a larger resin pour in a larger bucket. Yay, more silly string! Perhaps if I had known exactly how the final piece would look like, I would have been able to minimize epoxy waste and optimize the casting. But I’m not a prophet, and I don’t like to remove options by chopping away too much of the burl ahead of time. The wood always takes precedence over the resin, and the focus should never be on the resin but on the wood itself. The resin is purely there to enable the wood to be all it can be or at least to enable the wood to be more than what it could have been without the stabilization prowess of plastic. In the end, I was going for a more curvy version of a hollow form with slender base, a well-defined neck and shoulders. This piece may eventually be for sale on my website, but if you are interested in purchasing it before I put a price tag on it, please contact me through my website: If you enjoyed the video, please smash that LIKE button and Share it with your friends! It really helps support my small business. Please drop a Comment below letting me know your thoughts. Also, Subscribe for more and crazier projects! Thank you @TotalBoat : TotalBoat Thickset Fathom Deep Pour Epoxy: TotalBoat Tabletop Epoxy: TotatBoat Clear UV Cure Resin: Starbond’s YouTube Channel: @StarbondAdhesives Use Discount Code ADAMSEN15 for 15% all Starbond products! Shop Starbond: My website and contact info: Music: Follow me on Instagram: @adamsen_woodcraft See what’s up on Facebook: REFERRAL LINKS TO PRODUCTS I USE: Kutzall sphere rotary burr: Starbond Clear Thin CA glue: Starbond Clear Medium CA glue: Starbond Clear Thick CA glue: Starbond Activator: TotalBoat Penetrating Epoxy: TotalBoat Thickset Epoxy: TotalBoat Tabletop Epoxy: Carter & Son 5/8“ Bowl Gouge: Crown Diamond Parting Tool: Tormek T-8 Sharpener: Easy Wood Tools Carbide Cutter: Easy Wood Tools Carbide Cutter: