Moscou, capitale de la Russie, ouvre ses portes à Jérôme Pitorin. Les nouveaux riches se mêlent aux babouchkas pendant que les jeunes clament leur amour pour les poètes morts. Le temps d’un week-end, le journaliste globe-trotteur découvre l’accueil et la chaleur des Moscovites. Il débute son séjour devant le café Pouchkine, où l’attend Pierre-Christian Brochet, journaliste et éditeur de guides de voyage, installé à Moscou depuis 27 ans.
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