Core work is more than just making your abs tired.
Here’s the thing I see a lot of: Climber swings up the wall between jugs, shaking out at the biggest ones and breathing hard; finally gets to rest stance and the whole body goes slack. Hangs on arms to “rest” but is actually increasing the work the arms have to do because (I believe) he lacks core strength and breathing skills to maintain full body tension while he rests.
We all know the hips drive movement in almost every climbing situation, but the thing I feel you have to keep in mind is that the core muscles are what allow your super strong legs and your super strong arms to work together. The issue with most core training is that it is focused on the rectus abdominis, which is one of the smaller and less hard working groups on the team.
I’m obviously an advocate of doing big, integrative lifts, but we’re coming to understand that midsection control in extended and imbalanced positions takes more than what we get from bracing during a heavy lift.
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