Yellowed Nintendo NES restoration and repair. What’s inside this one

Оригинал видео: Все права на это видео принадлежат автору канала: Restoring the original Gameboy got me really interested in restoring and repairing more of these old gaming consoles like this Nintendo NES along side with the knives, tools, etc. I might move into other old electronics as well. I haven’t really done much this type of work ever but with every project I learn and get better. For the disassembly I used a Phillips screwdriver, except for the screws on the top half of the shell. Those had a weird type of screw that could still be opened with a flathead. There was a pit in the middle of the slot, so the screwdriver would be a flathead with a “spike” in the middle. I have not seen those before. No real trick here. Try to remember which screw came where, or film it like me. And don’t loose the screws! Removing the controllers’ and buttons’ cords from the board was much harder than it looks. I probably spent 2 minutes just wiggling them from side to side until they came loose. For cleaning up the boards I used a small airbrush compressor which I have. This blew off all the loose dirt and dust. After this I used Isopropylic alcohol to clean up the rest and remove some corrosion. I works really well and doesn’t corrode the parts. After cleaning everything I tested that the console works before putting it back together. The shell was quite yellowed and had some stains, maybe from stickers. It was also very dirty and more dirt was found from inside. No wonder it had some issues. I sed the same method for “retrobrighting” the shell than I used with the SNES. I only did a little upgrade to the “solarium”. I added a baking sheet that will disperse the light so that the lighting will be more even. I think the optimal method would be to have a clear box inside the solarium and the parts submerged in hydrogen peroxide. With this method I don’t need as much hydrogen peroxide but I need to be watching that the hydrogen peroxide wont dry too much or something because that may cause patchy results. Basically what was done is that I mixed 12% hydrogenperoxide with gelatin to make it less runny (this doesn’t work extremely well. I’ll do something better after I’ve used this batch up). After this I wrapped the whole thin in cling film to prevent the liquid from evaporating. The items were then put into a box with UV-led strips. I’ve tested that the temperature in the box (read MY box) won’t go much above 50 degrees Celsius with I feel, won’t cause a fire hazard, or melt the plastic. After this I just cleaned the parts from the liquid and let them dry before assembly. Fun fact: I spent a long time making the timelapse. There is probably 100 cuts in the clip, it’s not just speeded up video ;) --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my new Instagram: Support me on Patreon: SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: SCREW DRIVER SET: HYDROGEN PEROXIDE: UV LED STRIP: SOME OF MY OTHER TOOLS: SANDING PADS: SCORLL SAW: POWER FILE: CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: CORDLESS DRILL: BETTER ROTARY TOOL: PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: MAIN TRIPOD: MICROPHONE: VIDEO LIGHTS: MAIN LENS: CINEMATIC LENS: WIDE ANGLE LENS: GOPRO: THE WATCH: --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ ---------------------------------------------------------------------